During the last century, the presence of Lebanese people in Mexico starts with the exit of Arab families from Lebanon. This event was not only in Mexico, in fact the Lebanese were established in other American countries like U.S.A., Brazil, Colombia and Argentina.
The city of Puebla is a strong reference point for the aforementioned historical episode in the Mexican Republic. This happened because the place mentioned is located between Veracruz (where the migrants arrived) and Mexico City. For this reason, some families chose to stay, some of them even prospered through trade.
Specifically, in Puebla there is a colony called La Paz, an area where people of other nationalities have settled. Right there is a restaurant that has gained popularity because a significant part of its menu is Lebanese food, in addition to the fact that it is a buffet. The name of the place is Biblos.
Marcel Chaín Karam is one of the descendants of the first Lebanese who arrived in Mexico and he is the third generation of those mentioned. He is the owner of the Lebanese buffet, where there is also a store selling ingredients to prepare Arabic food, and also offers decorative motifs.
In the place, dishes such as stuffed grape leaves, hummus, and representative sweets, among which are bridal fingers and maamoul, coexist indiscriminately. Paintings with Lebanese landscapes, figures of camels and dromedaries, oriental music and the tranquility of the place are the hallmarks of each day.
“My grandparents arrived by boat to Veracruz and settled here [in Puebla]. First they worked in the markets and with their savings they opened textile factories. But when they arrived, they didn’t know any Spanish, even in the registration they had their names changed at customs, even though they made money. It’s another language, another country, other customs, something difficult to assimilate at first. Despite this, they had children. The grandparents did suffer a lot, we, let’s say, had already set the table.”
Mr. Marcel still speaks French and professes Catholicism with oriental and Mexican characteristics, which demonstrates the preservation of his roots and the cultural syncretism that the descendants of migrants have been the protagonists of. But above all, the Arabic seasoning is his hallmark and inheritance from his mother.
“In Lebanon, our family had businesses on the father’s and mother’s side, may they rest in peace. When we arrived in Puebla, my brother, my sister, my mother and I thought about opening a food business. My mother taught us how to cook and we opened the restaurant, as well as a store selling Lebanese products.”
Due to the differences between culinary cultures, such as exotic flavours, one might assume that what is offered may not make much of an impact, but contrary to expectations, the establishment is well received by locals, even customers queue up to buy products.
“The reception has been very good, thank God. We have received support from the people here. I have more Mexican customers than Lebanese, I even have more Mexican friends and they like Lebanese food. Obviously, despite the differences, we have been here for a while, we have become accustomed to life in Mexico, here in Puebla, we get along great like brothers, long live Mexico!” concluded the owner.
In the preparation of the food, in the treatment of the customers, in the way in which they share their customs and in the entire place, the pride that the owner and the family feel for their Arab origin is noticeable.